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Ray Foley’s recipe for success runs from punch to punch lines.
Posted October 15, 2009 by Mary Ann Castronovo Fusco
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Illustration by James Yang.
You can call him Ray, you can call him barkeep. Just don’t call Basking Ridge resident Ray Foley—author of Bartending for Dummies and more than a dozen other bartending books—a mixologist.
“Those who call themselves mixologists are phonies,” declares the South Orange native, who co-created the fuzzy navel for DeKuyper (1.5 oz. DeKuyper Peachtree Schnapps, 2 oz. orange juice) in 1985. “A mixologist is a person who really doesn’t know how to tend bar but has enough money to get a PR agent.”
Snappy one-liners come easily to the 66-year-old former Marine and veteran bartender who once wrote jokes for Totie Fields, Phyllis Diller, and Johnny Carson. But he takes what he calls “the on-premise pouring profession” seriously, and has gained a national following with Bartender magazine, which he founded 30 years ago while working at the Manor in West Orange. Today the quarterly has a circulation of almost 150,000 and a companion web site, bartender.com.
“When I first started, I didn’t know the difference between a martini and a Manhattan,” Foley admits. “In the service, I drank shots and beer.” Nonetheless, in the late ’60s, he landed a part-time job at the Manor’s service bar, where waiters filled drink orders and “you had to be fast, but you couldn’t be sloppy.” He soon mastered enough cocktails to work the front bar and eventually became beverage manager and assistant general manager, as well as a consultant to distillers and importers.
After two decades, Foley left the Manor to focus on the publishing company he and his wife, Jaclyn, also a Manor alum, run from their home. The Foleys created the Bartender Hall of Fame® and run a foundation to provide scholarships for bartenders and their kids. In addition to his many cocktail volumes (and a 2009 desk calendar called Beer Is the Answer…I Don’t Remember the Question), Foley has compiled a few joke books, including this year’s God Loves Golfers Best (containing such gems as, “The difference between golf and government is that in golf you can’t improve your lie,” attributed to former California governor George Deukmejian). He has collected 1,500 cocktail recipe books, some dating to the 1800s, and 368 cocktail shakers, including one made from an artillery shell.
“Being a good bartender is 20 percent mechanics and 80 percent personality,” he says. “You’ve got to like people. You’re dealing with people at the best parts of their life—birthdays, weddings, anniversaries—and the worst parts—divorce, death.” He thinks every bar should have a signature drink as long as it abides by a cardinal rule: Keep it simple. “Creating a drink with mango juice and lemongrass isn’t going to impress my fat Irish ass, because I want to see them sold,” he says.
True to his Irish roots—his father was from Limerick; his mother, Tipperary—the affable raconteur can pour on the charm as readily as his favorite Stinger—made with Armagnac, not cognac, please. (You have to love a guy who ends almost every conversation with, “You’re the best!”) Having served a constellation of celebrities in his day—from Alan King to Jackie O—he abides by the bartender’s code of honor: What’s said at the bar, stays at the bar. (Though he will tell you professional athletes are the worst tippers, because fans pay their tabs and owners comp them, so they claim to “never see the bill.”)
Come January, Foley, a father of four, will become a grandfather, though he isn’t crazy about being called Grandpa. Still, it beats mixologist.
NEW JERSEY MONTHLY CRANBERRY HOLIDAY PUNCH
Ray Foley created this recipe for NJM readers.
Ingredients:
8 oz. Sobieski vodka
3 oz. Cointreau or Patrón
Citrónge liqueur
16 oz. cranberry juice
12 oz. club soda
Preparation:
Mix in large bowl. Add pitted cherries, cranberries, and one large orange slice.
**********
JERSEY DEVIL
Ingredients:
1 ½ oz. Laird’s Applejack
½ oz. Cointreau
½ tsp. sugar
½ oz. Rose’s lime juice
½ oz. cranberry juice
Preparation: Shake ingredients and serve over ice.
BOSTON (AP) — Eddie Doyle was the guy who really did know everybody’s name, at least when he started working at the tavern that inspired the television show “Cheers.”
To the tens of thousands of tourists that later passed through, Doyle remained behind the bar to offer a smile, a beer and tips about where to find the Boston that wasn’t shown on TV.
Now Doyle is out of a job, laid off from “Cheers” after 35 years.
The bar’s owner has said a tough economy and sagging business forced the move, which was one of several layoffs.
Doyle said he’s not bitter about being laid off, just surprised and a little sad.
“This bar, for me … it was not just another job,” Doyle said. “It was the perfect job.”
Longtime friend and lifelong bartender Tommy Leonard called Doyle’s exit “the end of an era,” and said Doyle is one of the most giving men he knows.
“He just has a way to connect,” Leonard said. “If you want to feel good about yourself you go in and see Eddie Doyle, whether you were a total stranger or a longtime friend.”
Doyle, who was laid off in February, has spent the last few weeks cleaning out his office, and reflecting on what he considered a great run.
He began working at the pub in 1974 after a few years bouncing around the advertising world as a graphic artist. He’d worked occasionally as a barkeep and said the fast pace and personalities sucked him in. He took a regular shift at the restaurant above the bar, then moved downstairs, turning down a chance to head the graphics department at a now-defunct department store chain, a decision he never regretted.
“I’d probably be in a nursing home right now,” he said with a laugh.
Doyle, who will give his age only as around 66, describes his job in the early years as “ringmaster.” People of all stripes, from college professors to working men, would meet to hash out the day’s events, give each other a hard time and occasionally cause mischief. He recalled a group of regulars who got in trouble racing wheelchairs at a local hospital where he was staying with an illness, just before stopping in to surprise him with a party on the night “Cheers” debuted.
“It was a great mix of people,” Doyle said. “I could probably say good night to each one of them by name or face.”
The clientele changed when the TV show took off and Doyle has had plenty of brushes with famous people. Kevin Costner stopped by once and Doyle shook hands with the former chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff Admiral William J. Crowe Jr. The TV show’s entire cast has been in and out of the bar, though probably not for inspiration.
Doyle was nothing like his TV counterpart, the womanizing barkeep Sam Malone. He’s married to the same woman he met at the bar, originally called the Bull & Finch Pub, when he was a regular there in the early 1970s.
The corpulent Norm wasn’t based on a real guy, but there was a heavyset regular who would snarl at tourists who would remark, “you must be Norm.”
But the surly waitress Carla may have had some real-life inspiration. Actress Rhea Perlman prepared for the show by training several days with a waitress who eventually got fired after chewing out a customer for leaving a $1 tip on a $100 bill.
At the height of the show’s popularity, 3,000 people would pass through the bar daily, and 5,000 on weekends, Doyle said. The traffic kept him hopping and filled his pockets. But many of the regulars who didn’t appreciate the crush of people wandered to new haunts. It didn’t matter much to Doyle, who used the bar’s fame to start a charity auction.
He started the annual “Cheers for Children” charity in 1979, which hit the $1 million mark in donations 25 years later. The charity will end with his time at the bar.
Doyle said he doesn’t know what’s next, but added he’s grateful to be at an age where he can take time and think about it. His boss is paying him until the end of the year, but his last day at Cheers will come at a going-away party later this month.
He’ll be leaving a place best known for the fiction it inspired, but was actually a lot like it, despite sometimes goofy plots, Doyle said. The interactions between characters remind him of what the real Cheers was: “a bunch of eccentrics that could get together and become friends,” Doyle said.
“When it came down to the end, I said, ‘You know, they actually hit it right on the head,'” he said.
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